Using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy to investigate the reaction of alkylsulfate and alkylethoxysulfate surfactants with keratin
Lewis, D.M. Carr, C.M. Broadbent, P.J. Rigout, M.L. Hawkes, J.A.
Lewis, D.M.
Carr, C.M.
Broadbent, P.J.
Rigout, M.L.
Hawkes, J.A.
Publication Date
2025-09
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© 2025 AOCS. This is the peer reviewed version of the following article: Lewis DM, Carr CM, Broadbent PJ et al (2025) Using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy to investigate the reaction of alkylsulfate and alkylethoxysulfate surfactants with keratin. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents. 28(5): 995-1008, which has been published in final form at https://doi.org/10.1002/jsde.12856. This article may be used for non-commercial purposes in accordance with Wiley Terms and Conditions for Use of Self-Archived Versions. This article may not be enhanced, enriched or otherwise transformed into a derivative work, without express permission from Wiley or by statutory rights under applicable legislation. Copyright notices must not be removed, obscured or modified. The article must be linked to Wiley’s version of record on Wiley Online Library and any embedding, framing or otherwise making available the article or pages thereof by third parties from platforms, services and websites other than Wiley Online Library must be prohibited.
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embargoedAccess
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2025-03-07
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2026-03-16
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Abstract
Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy (ToF-SIMS) was used to investigate the changes in keratin protein surface chemistry caused by the covalent bonding reactions of commercially available alkylsulfates and alkyl ethoxysulfates surfactants. Due to cystine and cysteine oxidation, plus regular shampooing, the surface chemistry of human hair is different from that of freshly scoured merino wool. Human hair can produce positive ions derived from the reaction of alkylsulfates and alkylethoxysulfates, commonly present in shampoos, with histidine and possibly lysine residues (with little evidence for cysteine thiol reaction). ToF-SIMS analysis of alkylsulfate treated keratin fibers confirmed the reaction of these surfactants with cysteine thiol, tyrosine phenolate, histidine imino, and possibly lysine amino residues. The reaction of alkylsulfates with keratin fiber surface nucleophiles is salutary since similar nucleophiles are present in skin proteins, enzymes, and DNA—which could reasonably be expected to undergo similar modification. In the case of skin, this reaction increases the surface hydrophobicity, which alters the skin biochemistry and microbiome. This results in suitable environmental conditions that could exacerbate existing afflictions such as dandruff, eczema, and mouth ulcers.
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Accepted manuscript
Citation
Lewis DM, Carr CM, Broadbent PJ et al (2025) Using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectroscopy to investigate the reaction of alkylsulfate and alkylethoxysulfate surfactants with keratin. Journal of Surfactants and Detergents. 28(5): 995-1008.
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The full-text of this article will be released for public view at the end of the publisher embargo on 16 Mar 2026.